Nikon D50 Cable

INTRODUCTION

This is how I take advantage of and set up a D50.

Want free live telephone support, 24 hours a day, 12 months a yr? For those who’re within the USA, call (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon also has a few of it’s personal operator’s tutorials here.

I begin off explaining things so merely my mom can understand, and get on to deciphering every menu item for advanced customers at the bottom.

For more examples of why you’d need to change these settings and why, also see my Maui Picture Expedition page.

BASICS:

CAMERA

Many of these changes require you to be in be within the P, S, A or M publicity modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes typically lock out some adjustments.

I go away most settings at their defaults and use the Program publicity mode. I never use the cute little preset icon modes as a result of I favor to set anything particular myself.

ISO: I take advantage of 200. If the sunshine will get dim and my photographs would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I improve the ISO to four hundred, 800 or 1,600. I by no means hassle with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 appears to be like advantageous at ISO 1,600 if you happen to need it. I might a lot rather have a slightly grainy but sharp image than a less grainy but blurry one. Not like film, the D50 seems to be nice at excessive ISOs, so I use them anytime I want them.

I would love to make use of ISO AUTO, but often do not because it additionally remains active in Handbook exposure mode. This firmware defect defeats the aim of the guide publicity mode. Utilizing menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for manual exposure mode takes extra time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.

White Steadiness (WB): I would use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I favor warmer (oranger) images. I clarify white balance on my White Balance web page and explain more about how one can regulate it on the D50 later.

QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. That is referred to as NORM and L on the top LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Massive (3,008 x 2,000) picture size.

I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the same shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I noticed NO distinction! Significantly, if you noticed these prints you would not be able to kind them out either. I can see only the slightest variations on my monitor enlarged to one hundred%, which has similarities to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has 100% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t fret: if you happen to need space, shoot BASIC and nobody will see the difference. The one way to tell is by looking at the file size.

I’ll use BASIC for events and sports activities once I’m taking pictures many a whole lot and lots of of photographs at once. In these instances I’m more concerned with time wasted for the files to transfer, copy and archive. Primary appears 99% the identical as FINE, even blown up big.

I’ll use FINE on rare events where I am taking pictures just a few images and count on to peer at them very closely. In these cases the additional size isn’t important if I count on to be spending a variety of time analyzing every image.

I avoid FINE JPG because NORM gives me the identical results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I might run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Missing a shot is a really seen defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon knows what they’re doing. That’s why they name it Regular and that’s why I usually use Normal JPG.

OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I prefer the vivid coloration I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 film, so I tweak a D50 to offer colour as vivid as I can get. To do this go to MENU > Taking pictures Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Picture > Customized > (set Saturation to + and Shade Mode to IIIa) > – - Done > OK. In case you forget to select “- – Accomplished” and hit OK it will not keep in mind these settings! Details are on the Capturing Menu page.

For pictures of people I both set the colours back to regular, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the top dial.

FOCUS: AF.

METERING: Matrix.

LENS

Many lenses don’t have any switches or settings. In that case, don’t worry.

More advanced lenses have focus mode settings, which can be either “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.

On older lenses I leave it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is guide focus. Generally you also have to move the change on the camera, which is a pain.

If the switch says “M/A – A” then I exploit M/A. This provides autofocus, and if I seize the main target ring it immediately lets me make guide corrections. As soon as I tap the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, gives each kinds of focus with out ever having to move any switches . It is the best.

Non-G lenses will have an aperture ring the place the lens is connected to the camera. Set this this ring to the most important number, often 22, if not 32 or 16. This number might be in orange on autofocus lenses. There usually is a lock to maintain this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you may get an error message from the D50.

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